Sunday, November 4, 2012

Flying Frog's Last Night on Earth Miniatures Painted

Last Night On Earth Heroes
Okay, so it’s again been a while since DVD posted anything but I have been fairly busy painting up some new survivor minis as well as a shed load of zeds for my zombie horde. Also I’ve started to construct some scenery for my zombie project, buildings, roads ect. Today however, id like to come back to a post I put up a while back regarding some “Last Night On Earth” miniatures I ordered. Well I’ve finally got round to painting them, and as the last post got quite a few views, id thought id show you all them and share my thoughts. Also, as many people may or may not know there are some horror stories floating around on the net regarding these minis, and how they hold up to being painted, so I’ll also ad a brief description on how I got my finished result and what I used. (P.S sorry for the picture quality)
The Track Star, Sheriff, Jock, Drifter and Priest
So these minis are from a board game, and as board game pieces, these minis are fantastic. With my order, I received two promo cards from the game, and though I don’t own the game, judging from the minis and cards I got and from what I’ve seen on the net, the production value of this game seems awesome. Now again, I like these models, but as they where designed for a board game, they don’t have the same qualities you would expect from a war game miniature. They are made from some sort of resin, which is not the best for applying paint to, and makes the models quite bendy. Size wise, they are the same as most 28mm scale minis and will fit in well with other manufacturers. Being board game minis, they are of a true scale, and thus don’t have the exaggerated features that war game minis do. This also makes them difficult to paint, as applying slightly too much paint can, and will loose you some of their detail.
The Diner Cook, FBI Agent, Supermarket Boy and Prom Queen
Now i'm going to go through what I did and used to get these done. First of all, when I received the minis I was disheartened, as many of them were bent to shit, and being a rubbery plastic I thought that was it. However, as I soon found out, a quick brush over a small flame (and I mean QUICK as these fuckers WILL melt!) such as a cigarette lighter, will allow you to bend them back in place. Once bent back, dip in some cold water and they will set in the new position and stay there for good. As for mould lines, there wasn’t that many on mine, but for god sake, use your craft knife of something to remove them! I was feeling a bit lazy and decided to burn mine off with the lighter and almost completely melted one of the figures faces off!

Next up I washed them in some washing up liquid. Doing this may or may not matter and may make no difference what so ever. The only reason I did this was because I read somewhere that they are easier to paint if you do this. Something about washing off the mould residue or some rubbish. As I already had a bowl of water at hand from fixing their bent legs, I thought I might as well.
The High School Sweetheart, Farmers Daughter and Nurse

As for painting, not that I’m advertising or anything but I used GW paints. Due to the horror stories regarding these, I thought it might be helpful to someone to know exactly what products I used on them and my process.
So first up I undercoated them, as I do with most of my minis, with a basic GW white straight from the tub. No fancy sprays, primers, or any of that shit on them. Now I undercoated them and left to dry over night for me to paint the next day. Not that this drying time is normally needed for minis but it’s something I normally do and the paint on these minis did stay tacky for quite a while after I coated them, so you may want to do the same. As for the real painting, I again used GW paints and just painted them up as you normally would. Then leave to dry for a good while as again, these stay tacky for a while.

Now as for Varnishes, sealants ect, I don’t use anything on my minis. You make think I’m crazy but it’s just something I’ve never done. When I got into war gamming, I played WH fantasy battles with large units on movement trays. Thus the models never really got handled or damaged so I’ve always thought it unnecessary. Saying that, as for these minis, though they are not coated with anything, they have held their paint really well and thus far have had no problems with paint chipping, rubbing off ect.

Anyway, I hope you all enjoy the minis and I hope this may be of use to someone.


  1. A promising start. I'm guessing very thin coats are required with the figures then.

    Head over to these forums this is where all the ZBA members lurk. Plus there is a wealth of ideas there.


    1. Cheers Brummie, will definately check out the boards. As for the minis, thin coats are ideal. The base coat is the most challenging as obviously you want to keep it thin to save the detail, yet at the same time the plastic the minis are made from makes it a right pain for that initial coat to stick! Im sure anyone with a reasonable amount of painting under their belt should be able to get good results from these. Saying that, if i had the entire game, id definately would have liked to have a go at some of the zombies first.

      P.s congrats on recently hitting the 20k mark!

  2. I've tried hot water to soften "rubbery" miniatures with some success. Dip into warm water (hot bath temperature, not boiling!), reposition and dunk in cold water to firm up. Less chance of melting the figure than when using a naked flame! I don't know whether it would work on this type of model, though...

    1. Good idea, and definitely worth trying first as it really didn't take allot of heat to get them to start bending. I definitely wouldn’t use a flame anywhere else on the miniature but to straighten up the legs, as there’s not really any detail there for you to ruin. I know many people with the game like to buy these extra sets to convert into zombie versions of the heroes, so hot water is probably the way to go of it works on them, especially if you want to reposition other body parts.

  3. did you have any problems with the tackiness afterwards. reading some stories of these figures not drying due to the plastic used...

    1. Sorry for the late response Michael,
      I also read the same horror stories on the net about the plastic used on these. Honestly, they did stay tacky a little while longer than expected, yet it did'nt cause me any problems and definately was not as bad as i had read. Mabe a couple of days for the tackiness to go completey, so id suggest leaving a bit more time than you usually would between coats. I did'nt coat or finish my figures in any varnishes or anything like that, so i would'nt be able to comment on how such products may react with the plastic, or affect the finnished result.
      Again, sorry for the slow response, and hope this helps. If not, then feel free to post any more queries.